Canoe Log by Joe Cowan

CANOE TRIP LOG – DAY 1

JUST THE FACTS

Today’s date is Aug 26, 1999. This morning we got up at 0530 to get to HMCS Star for departure at approximately 0830. We traveled by car from Hamilton to Rain Lake on the west side of Algonquin Park. There we put the canoes in the water at approximately 1600 and paddled the length of the lake to arrive at our first campsite at 1800 hrs. We went to bed at 2330.

Rain Lake 5 km on water Long Narrow Lake

Campsite Description

We camped on the eastern tip of the island at the east end of Rain Lake directly across from our first portage. (On the Chrismap Algonquin 1, we were located at 630556.) The site was quite level but really only suited to two tents. The fire pit was good but the "tinderbox" was in poor shape and not very private. Tall trees offered good shelter and many broken branches and fallen trees made for good wood for the campfire. The landing site was very small, rocky and mucky at the same time, and swimming was poor as the bottom was too soft. There were lots of mosquitoes.

Plant and animal sightings

Trees were mostly coniferous. Chipmunks tried to get into the food bags and were abundant. There were lots of loons on the lake.

Other comments

There was a shortage of trees suitable for hanging the bear line. It was a long, slow job getting the food hung in a safe manner.

DAY’S ACTIVITIES

Mrs. Walker drove Crystal Walker, Dave Vu and myself to our put in point at Rain Lake. On the way we picked up Capt. Butson’s rental canoe at Algonquin Outfitters and had lunch at a converted gas station restaurant in Huntsville. This long drive (4+ hours) was the most boring part of the day but eating at Jesters restaurant was the best.

I was paired with Bert Stewart in the canoe. Bert only steers from the left side so I had to learn to paddle on the right.

When we reached the campsite, Carlo Alfau and Scott Garbett went to filter water for drinking.

The funniest thing that happened was trying to make Jiffy Pop over an open fire. The foil had loosened on one side so the popcorn was coming out the side of the package. When we passed it around, I dropped it on the ground. The next morning the chipmunks were taking all the unpopped kernels back to their nests.

The group was generally tired but happy to be on their way.

The chicken burgers at the campsite were good.

There was a lot of horsing around in the tent after we went to bed.

Day’s Weather

Morning Sunny and Warm

Afternoon Sunny and Hot

Evening Warm and Humid

Reflections on the Day

This was a boring day because we were stuck in the car for so long. I tried fishing but had no luck.

JUST THE FACTS

Today’s date is Aug 27, 1999. This morning I got up at 0600. Departure was at approximately 0945. We had eight portages totaling 3870 m to get to a Misty Lake campsite at 1800 hrs. Total Distance approx 12.5 km. We went to bed at 2230.

Rain Lake 200 m across to portage

Portage to Sawyer Lake 310 m

Sawyer Lake 1 km small round

Portage to Jubilee Lake 550 m

Jubilee Lake 1.5 km small

Portage to Juan Lake 450m

Juan Lake 200 m large pond

Portage to Moccasin Lake 180m

Moccasin Lake 1.5 km long narrow, T shape

Portage to Bandit Lake 440m

Bandit Lake 1 km round

Portage to Winona Lake 540m

Winona Lake 800 m short narrow

Portage to Muslin Lake 370m

Muslin Lake 600 m short narrow

Portage to Misty Lake 1030m

Misty Lake 2 km large with islands

Campsite Description

We camped on the southern shore of Misty Lake. (On the Chrismap Algonquin 1, we were located at 705630.) The site was sloping. The fire pit was good and there was good wood for the campfire. The landing site was rocky, and swimming was good. There were few mosquitoes because the wind kept them down.

Plant and animal sightings

There were lots of loons and chipmunks today. We also saw partridge along the portage routes. The trees were both deciduous and coniferous.

Other comments

There were fresh bear droppings on the path to the tinderbox at the campsite. This made us all a bit nervous.

DAY’S ACTIVITIES

Bert and I got up at 0600 to pump water before breakfast and do some fishing. I didn’t catch anything but we had bagels and cream cheese for breakfast.

We did eight portages today. The paddling was enjoyable after all the walking and lifting.

We had lunch at Juan Lake just after a mid size portage. Crystal, Scott Garbett and Dave Vu filtered water while we got the canoes and equipment started on the portage.

When we finally got to Misty Lake we found a site midway along the lake. It was getting dark so we had to hurry to set up camp and make supper. I mooched spaghetti from the officers.

The funniest thing was Carlo kept talking about his "Paella, Paella" that he was making for his supper.

The evening cooled off and it was cold going to bed.

Day’s Weather

Morning Sunny and Warm

Afternoon Sunny and Hot

Evening Windy and Cool

Reflections on the Day

This was a long, exhausting day. It was very frustrating, hot and harder work than I had expected. Eight of seventeen portages are now done – only 9 more to go.

Words of Wisdom: when you put powdered milk in Kraft Dinner, water it down first.

CANOE TRIP LOG – DAY 3

JUST THE FACTS

Today’s date is Aug 28, 1999. This morning I got up at 0800. Departure was at approximately 0945. We had six portages totaling 1650 m to get to White Trout Lake. Total Distance approx 17 km. We reached the campsite at 1700 hrs. We went to bed at 2230.

Misty Lake 4 km to end of lake to portage

Portage to Petawawa Cr 840 m

Petawawa Creek 2 km narrow and shallow

Portage to Petawawa Cr 180 m

Petawawa Creek 100 m narrow and shallow Portage to Petawawa Cr 190m

Petawawa Creek 1 km narrow and shallow

Portage to Petawawa Cr 150m

Petawawa Creek 1.5 km narrow and shallow

Portage to Petawawa Cr 80 m around waterfall

Petawawa Creek 100 m narrow and shallow Portage to Grassy Bay 210m walked canoes down rapids

Grassy Bay/White Trout Lake 6.6 km wide marsh to open lake

Campsite Description

We camped on the northern shore of White Trout Lake. (On the Chrismap Algonquin 1, we were located at 801680.) The site was level with good areas for pitching the tents. The fire pit was good and there was good wood for the campfire. The landing site was steeply sloping rock, and swimming was good. The tinderbox was very close and needed a tarp for privacy.

Plant and animal sightings

Red squirrels, chipmunks and loons were the most abundant wildlife visible. Otter were swimming in Grassy Bay. There were lots of frogs in the reeds.

Other comments

There were few trees suitable for bear lines. The shore was perfect for fishing but no fish were caught.

DAY’S ACTIVITIES

We were slow getting on the water today. There was a stiff wind from our backs so we got the three cadet canoes together and held up a sail. It wasn’t as fast as paddling but a whole lot easier. Other canoes passed us but we had fun.

Except for the first one, the portages were short and easy. Paddling along the creek was eerie but we had lots of laughs bumping and racing the other canoes. At two points we had to cross beaver dams which meant ramming up on them then stepping out to push the canoe over. One portage took us around a small waterfall where we had lunch then splashed in the water (just like a small cold Jacuzzi) for ½ hour. At the last portage we carried the gear over then walked the canoes down through the rocks. When we reached the open lake we tried the sail again but it wasn’t much good. We had a hard paddle into the wind to cross the lake to the campsite.

At the campsite, Dave and Crystal went to filter water for drinking. The rest of us set up the camp, got fire wood and hung the bear lines. Finally we were getting the hang of it. The food was good but I had to mooch to get full.

Everyone was tired from the paddling so we went to bed around 2230 again.

Day’s Weather

Morning Cool, sunny, windy

Afternoon Hot, sunny, windy

Evening Cool, clear, wind down

Reflections on the Day

Fourteen of the portages are over now. While sailing we got to talk together as a group. It is strange to be so far from home, TV and video games. Tomorrow we are not going to move so we will have a chance to rest our tired muscles.

CANOE TRIP LOG – DAY 4

JUST THE FACTS

Today’s date is Aug 29, 1999. This morning I got up at 0830. We spent the morning getting organized and the afternoon exploring the area around the old McLaughlin Bros. Farm Depot. We went to bed at 2230.

Campsite Description

Same as day 3.

Plant and animal sightings

Chipmunks, squirrels and loons still in evidence. Found sign of bear and moose in area of the Farm Depot.

Other comments

We had to scrounge a bit harder for firewood the second night.

DAY’S ACTIVITIES

We slept late and had pancakes for breakfast. Captain Butson gave us a talk on survival and escape routes.

We used the GPS units and Silva Compasses to explore the area of the Farm Depot.

There were abandoned buildings and old buckets around the Depot as well as parts of old wagons.

The field was full of raspberry, blueberry and strawberry bushes so there were many areas where animals had flattened the grass to lie down.

The group was tired but happy and better rested.

We made a community supper with Fettucini, bannock bread with chocolate chips, baked potatoes and apple/oatmeal cobbler. It was great to eat more than one thing for a meal.

We all went out to lie on the rocks and watch for shooting stars and satellites. I saw 17 satellites and 3 shooting stars.

The funniest thing was when Dave was very slow to ask us to point out a shooting star.

When the moon came up around 2200 the stars faded and we went back to the fire for hot chocolate and bed.

Day’s Weather

Morning Cool, grey and windy

Afternoon Cool, grey and windy

Evening Cold, clearing and windy

Reflections on the Day

I missed the activity of the previous days…walking to explore was OK but it became boring after a while. The stars really are beautiful in Algonquin Park.

CANOE TRIP LOG – DAY 5

JUST THE FACTS

Today’s date is Aug 30, 1999. This morning we got up at 0730. Departure was at approximately 0900. We had two portages totaling 2150 m to get to a Happy Isle Lake campsite at 1630 hrs. Total Distance approx 16 km. I went to bed at 2130.

White Trout Lake to Big Trout Lake 9.5 km both large, deep

Portage to Merchant Lake 1830 m

Merchant Lake 2.75 km medium round

Portage to Happy Isle Lake 330 m

Happy Isle Lake 1.5 km medium curved

Campsite Description

We camped on a point on the north shore of Happy Isle Lake. (On the Chrismap Algonquin 1, we were located at 936691.) The site was high above the water but level with small areas for pitching the tents. The fire pit was good and there was good wood for the campfire. The landing site was steeply sloping rock and the canoes had to be moved to the top of the hill. Swimming was good. The tinderbox was in good condition but quite far from the tents.

Plant and animal sightings

There were chipmunks, squirrels, loons, ducks and a very timid but large rabbit.

Other comments

Because the site was so high it was dangerous to move around after dark. It would have been easy to fall down the slope.

DAY’S ACTIVITIES

Today Crystal and Dave were the lead canoe. It was a hard paddle to Big Trout Lake into heavy wind and waves. After we got onto the lake the wind let up and the paddling became easier. We went a long way up a marshy area at the east end of the lake to our first portage. This was a hard one with lots of hills. We had lunch on the shore of Merchant Lake but Bert wasn’t feeling very well. This was a nice lake to paddle to the short portage to Happy Isle Lake.

We found a campsite on a point sticking out into the lake and got set up quickly. We all went for a short swim before supper. Crystal washed some clothing and put it on the rocks to dry. Bert made rice and tomato for supper. It tasted great.

Carlo was bribed into being silent for two whole hours and the peace of the park was saved.

We had "happy juice" (some Slam Dunk crystal drink loaded with sugar). We went to bed early.

Day’s Weather

Morning Cold, Cloudy, Very Windy

Afternoon Warm, Sunny, Light Wind

Evening Cool, Sunny

Reflections on the Day

My head/neck length is too long to carry the back of the canoe. Even when I used the paddles as shoulder supports the top of my head hit the bottom of the canoe and I ended up with a "smartie" from the button on my ball cap. Otherwise I just ended up looking at my toes – boring.

One portage to go – the longest one yet.

CANOE TRIP LOG – DAY 6

JUST THE FACTS

Today’s date is Aug 31, 1999. This morning we got up at 0730. Departure was at approximately 0900. One long portage of 2150 m to cross to Opeongo Lake and then to a campsite on Opeongo Lake at 1300 hrs. At 1700 we all paddled up Hailstorm Creek returning at about 2030. Total Distance approx 14 km. I went to bed at 2230.

Happy Isle Lake 3 km medium, curved

Portage to Opeongo Lake 2150 m

Opeongo Lake 1.75 km long, large and deep

Hailstorm Creek 7 km (I/O) bog, very shallow

Campsite Description

We camped on the west shore near Hailstorm Creek on Lake Opeongo. (On the Chrismap Algonquin 1, we were located at 981664.) The site was level with good areas for pitching the tents. The fire pit was good and there was good wood for the campfire. Tall trees right in the site made for good places to hang the bear line. The landing site was sheltered and level, and swimming was good. The tinderbox was very close but had moved back so part of the hole was exposed. There was a very small beach so it was not a good place to watch stars.

Plant and animal sightings

There were the usual squirrels, chipmunks and loons. When we went up Hailstorm Creek we saw several herons and finally a cow moose wading in the water. She did not let us get very close before she got up on shore and went into the woods.

Other comments

Someone had built a small table on the site which we used for cooking.

DAY’S ACTIVITIES

Bert and myself were the lead canoe today. We led a leisurely paddle to the end of Happy Isle Lake then a long portage to Opeongo where there was a dock. It was just a short paddle on the lake to a campsite where we landed about 1300hrs.

We set up camp and made lunch.

Crystal, Scott, Dave and myself spent the afternoon exploring a small island where we left Scott and Crystal stranded for a little while.

We came back in time for an early supper and then left for a paddle up Hailstorm Creek. Scott and I were in the same canoe.

We paddled for about three hours through a wide eerie marsh and saw very little wildlife except for one moose and several herons.

Just as the sun was setting we headed back to camp where we had a late snack and went to bed early.

Day’s Weather

Morning Cool, sunny

Afternoon Hot, sunny

Evening Warm, clear

Reflections on the Day

The portages are over! Today I am proud of the fact that we carried the canoe 2150 m without once putting it down. On our very first portage of 340 m we had to stop and put it down at least once.

The creek area was creepy. I didn’t think we would see a moose after all that paddling up the creek but Captain Butson was right. I felt stupid.

On the way out the water was like glass and reflected everything perfectly.

CANOE TRIP LOG – DAY 7

JUST THE FACTS

Today’s date is Sept 1, 1999. This morning we got up at 0700. Departure was at approximately 0930. One long paddle of approximately 11 km to a campsite across from Bates Island on Opeongo Lake. Total Distance approx 11 km. I went to bed at 2130.

Opeongo Lake North Arm to near Bates Island 11 km

Campsite Description

We camped on the west shore of Opeongo Lake across from the north tip of Bates Island. (On the Chrismap Algonquin 1, we were located at 041593.) The site was level with good areas for pitching the tents. There were two fire pits, one on the sandy beach, but we had to search for wood for the campfire. The landing site was sandy, and swimming was good with a fine pebble bottom. The tinderbox was close by.

Plant and animal sightings

The trees were mixed deciduous and coniferous. The only real animals we saw were chipmunks that were quite pesky and got into the food. Loons have been everywhere.

Other comments

It is too bad that they allow motor boats on this lake.

DAY’S ACTIVITIES

For breakfast we had blueberry pancakes provided by Capt Butson then broke camp quickly. This was a very long paddle day. We had to cover approximately 11 km down Opeongo Lake. We set off about 0930 and arrived at Bates Island by 1230. We had planned to stay on the island but the sites were not suitable for three tents so we proceeded to a nearby site on the mainland. We had lunch of spaghetti and sauce and spent the afternoon puttering about on the shore – a sand beach! Bert, Carlo and Capt Butson went to check out a jumping rock two small islands away.

Late in the afternoon we got the wood ready for the fire, pumped water and put the bear lines up.

After supper, just as it was getting dark, we all met at the campfire on the beach for a review of the trip. Several questions were asked including "What did you learn?" and "What memory will you take home?". Everyone had different ideas. Later the stars came out and we watched for satellites and shooting stars. The Northern Lights also appeared for a while.

We were all tired and a little sunburned, so we went to bed early.

Day’s Weather

Morning Cool, sunny

Afternoon Warm, sunny, windy

Evening Warm, clear

Reflections on the Day

This was our last full day and we are all getting a bit excited about going home. It was good to sit and talk about our trip together before we got back to civilization.

CANOE TRIP LOG – DAY 8

JUST THE FACTS

Today’s date is Sept 2, 1999. This morning we got up at 1800. We paddled the last 3 km up Opeongo Lake to our take out point at the Opeongo Store, arriving 1130. Returned to Hamilton at approximately 1900.

Opeongo Lake at Bates Island to Take Out at Opeongo Store 3 km.

Campsite Description

See Day 7

Plant and animal sightings

The chipmunks were everywhere here and very unafraid of people. There were lots of loons on the lake.

Other comments

DAY’S ACTIVITIES

We got up for a late breakfast of pancakes. We packed everything so that it could be stored upon our return to Hamilton.

Crystal, Dave and myself set off in the canoe to explore a small island near our site while Carlo, Bert and Scott went to swim from the "jumping rock".

Around 1000 we loaded the canoes for the last leg of the trip, approx. 3 km up the lake. Capt Butson taught us to sing Barrett’s Privateers. When we came around the last point of land and the Opeongo store was in sight, we started to race for the finish. Crystal and Vu finished just ahead of Bert and me. Capt Butson managed to keep Carlo and Scott occupied so for once the rest of us beat them to the shore.

We unloaded the canoes and put them on the trailer. Mrs Walker and Mr. Garbett arrived just as we were going for showers.

We returned the rental canoe to Algonquin Outfitters and proceeded to Barrie for a late lunch of Chinese food.

We arrived in Hamilton at approximately 1900 and put away the gear we had used on the trip.

Day’s Weather

Morning Cool, Sunny, light wind

Afternoon Warm, Sunny

Evening Warm, Muggy

Reflections on the Day

Even though there were times when it didn’t seem like much fun it was worthwhile. I enjoyed myself but missed being at home. I wish there had been more time between summer camp and the Algonquin trip. It would have made it much more enjoyable if we had not been so tired.

YOUR TRIP IN RETROSPECT

What equipment:

Didn’t you use? None

Was seldom used? Rain gear

Could you have used? Binoculars

What equipment, if any, would you not take or would you alter for the next trip?

Heavier wind pants.

What equipment, if any, would you take next time that you didn’t have on this trip?

Separate rope for the bear line, instead of the painters from the canoes.

Which meals were:

The best? Chicken burgers, rice and tomato soup

The worst? Kraft Dinner

Describe any meal quantity shortages or surpluses.

Too much rice, not enough hot chocolate

Describe any trip procedures that you would change for next time.

I would assign all of the tasks ahead of time. Who pumps water each day, who is the lead canoe, who hangs the bear line, who collects wood and looks after the fire, who cooks what meals, who cleans up the dishes, who sets up the tent, who takes it down etc. This way there would be a more even distribution of work and the jobs would get done before free time could start.

I would prepackage every meal. This was suggested before the trip but we did not do it.

Which trip procedures worked well?

Sharing the food rucks for carrying.

Describe any route changes you would recommend for a future trip?

None

Describe:

The best day. Day 3 was the best day because we were on and off the water so often. We got to cross beaver dams, walk the canoes down rapids and horse around in the water fall.

The worst day. Day 2 was the worst day because it was very frustrating portaging for the first time. I didn’t really know how to do anything and was too tired.

Best part of the trip. Setting sail on Misty Lake was great. A close second was building the sand castles on Opeongo Lake.

Worst part of trip. The first portages on day 2 when I was tired and frustrated.

General Comments Regarding the Trip

The biggest problem with this trip was that it was too close after 6 weeks at Summer Camp. I was very tired.

Despite that the trip was a chance to get away from crowds of people and the city and to enjoy nature.

I had fun working and playing with the group as a whole. We learned to rely on each other and watch out for each other. I learned that it is possible to travel and live for a whole week in a wilderness setting with only the equipment and supplies we could carry.

I would look forward to a trip like this if I could be better rested and prepared.